Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Luxury and Sadness

Shortly after introductions, the Vietnamese people I meet are usually concerned that I'm not married. They ask why, and since my vocabulary is limited to the words for hug, fifteen, and pomelo, it usually falls on Mike or Lữ to field an explanation. I'm somewhat grateful that my siblings haven't yet resorted to using canned answers. "It's funny you should ask that, you see, my brother isn't married because..."
"...he's been widowed seven times." or,
"...he's saving himself for the princess of Monaco." or,
"...physical contact causes him to lose bowel contol."
I imagine the asker's reaction to one of these statements might be encouragement, a pat on the shoulder, and positive thoughts. "Don't worry, you'll find someone." People's reaction to the truth is much more grim. One time, Mike told someone that I have high expectations, to which the response was, "oh, no wonder he's single."

The first follow-up question (directed at my translator) is often: how does he eat? The idea that a man knows how to feed himself causes further bewilderment. What we have here is a cultural dissimilarity. In the states, every man knows how to find sustenance. He just opens a can of tomato soup, pops a frozen waffle in the toaster, and calls it dinner. Men in Vietnam seem equally incapable in the kitchen, but they stubbornly refuse to subsist on the American male's scavenge diet of chocolate chips, jarred olives and dry cereal. Instead, as I've been told, Vietnamese males live at home until the moment they get married. Then they grab what they can carry from their room in their parents' house and make a run for the new home before starvation sets in. This procedure safely guarantees the men will never need to bother with learning how to peel a potato or to boil water. He simply trades his mother's cooking for that of his wife.

The Vietnamese people I meet seem to doubt I'm capable of so much as lifting a spoon to my mouth, much less cooking for myself, when you consider how often people comment on how skinny I am. But comments on your deviations from beauty standards are not meant to be rude. On the contrary, these comments on your weight and skin just mean people care about you. The other day after the bánh tét rolls were wrapped and boiling, I sat down to lunch with the ladies in the kitchen. One of them said to another, "you're getting fat." I didn't catch what the second lady said, but the first lady went on: "and you've gotten really black*; what on earth are you doing in the sun all day?" These comments aren't meant to be, or perceived to be offensive. They're just observations, and it's up to the listener do decide whether it's a bad condition or not.

I wouldn't be so skinny if I only had a wife, they say. As if marital status could change the fact that I have the metabolism of a teenager with a gut full of tapeworms. I'm not sure why I'm so skinny, but I blame genetics, and not for want of nutrition. I've always seen myself as a voracious eater. But Lữ recently has begun to tell people that I only eat a lot when food is put within line of sight, and otherwise, I eat rather little. This comment induces further pity for my perceived state of emaciation. And the solution, they say, is to marry, since a wife will fatten me up good and proper.

To kindly help get me a wife, they ask me two kinds of questions. One question is, do you want a Vietnamese wife? This question is sometimes obscured with the more indirect phrasing: do you like Vietnamese women? The other question is, do you want to live in Vietnam? This question is less direct than the first. Interestingly enough, it's also asked almost exclusively by women, whereas the first question is most often asked by men. There seems to be a significant difference here. To the men, all that matters is that the wife is desirable. The women, however, are concerned with whether my wife would be taken away from Vietnam or not. They seem to understand the personal hardship of separation more than the men do.

Women being taken away from Vietnam is a modern epidemic. The cliche is of the old western bachelor who flies to Southeast Asia to find a wife to bring home with him. This cliche is not without merit, but like most cliches, it paints a narrow picture. Many Asian foreigners also take Vietnamese brides back to their countries. The first time I heard of this was in Taiwan, when our teacher told us how Taiwanese bachelors with low prospects would travel to Vietnam in search of wives. What the teacher didn't know was that one of her students was half Chinese, half Vietnamese, and he was not too amused by the teacher's disdain for the practice. And a generation of the One-Child policy in a country that exceedingly values male children has resulted in many thirty-something men in China with a serious lack of marriage options. So they come to Vietnam to fill the gender gap. Most of the marriages between foreigners and Vietnamese women are voluntary to an extent. But many women, and even children, are kidnapped and sold to be brides. There must be a sense that Vietnamese families suffer from losing their daughters. The women I talk to seem particularly sensitive to this.

Assuming the foreigner presents himself honestly, to marry a foreigner isn't necessarily bad. But going back to the husband's country means she leaves behind her home, her family, her community, the life she knows, the language she speaks. Her connections will fizzle and fade. She won't be able to find that certain brand, or regional specialty. She won't be able to have conversations like, "you're getting fat," without inadvertently offending someone's western sensibility. Going back to the husband's country must create an awful feeling of disconnectedness. Mike summarized this idea in a phrase that means the Vietnamese in America are living in luxury, yet living in sadness.

I asked Lữ why someone would choose a life of sadness over a life rich with close ones and cultural comfort. She said, so they can send money and support to their family at home. Marriage has a different meaning here than it does in the states. It's not about the relationship between the two people, but how the couple fits into the larger family group. Often, the family pressures the woman to marry a foreigner in the hope that she'll send money back home. A marriage that benefits the larger family group will be imposed on her, not a marriage based on mutual admiration, the joy of togetherness, and a deep connection.

I respect the sense of familial responsibility that could compel a woman to marry a man she doesn't love so she can provide for her family back home. But the sorrow that separation brings her would weigh on me, as would the idea that her reasons for marriage were familial pressure. There was another question someone asked me in the kind attempt to find a way to fatten me up. It was, would I find it easy to be married to a Vietnamese woman? The answer is, it would be as easy, or as hard, for me as it would be for her.

What began as a post ripe with levity has descended into alarming gravity. This all unraveled from the oft-asked question of why I'm not married. I suppose the best thing to do while I'm in Vietnam is to wear a ring and have my siblings tell people I have a wife back in the states, and she's a great cook. I'm just skinny 'cause I'm allergic to food.

* In this sense, black means tanned, and tanned skin is devalued. In my experience, Asian cultures associate skin tone with socio-economic status. Darker skin indicates low-class outdoor work, like gardening, street-sweeping, and construction. Lighter skin is associated with higher class. As a result of this distinction, the markets are saturated with skin-lightening products, and the sweltering streets are stocked with women in full-body clothing--face included--to hide their skin from the sun. It's like they're wearing UV suits.

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

How to Roll and Bind Bánh Tét

photo by Lữ Như Tiên
In what may be my longest photo-layout yet, I thought I'd share a how-to for rolling and tying bánh tét. When you're an expert at making this classic dish of sticky rice and filling, the whole process takes just a few minutes.

Besides the ingredients, the necessary equipment is banana leaves, string or grass cord, and a giant kettle with a lid for boiling these sticky rice cakes.

Recipes for the rice and for the fillings vary. Unfortunately, I don't have one for the coconut rice, the mung bean and porkfat filling, or the bananas in syrup that you see here. I might make them a repost later on if I can track them down.

Of course, if you really want to do this dish right, you're gonna need to invite about a dozen friends and family to come over and participate in the process. After all, isn't that how food is supposed to be?
 
Banana leaf goes smooth side up.
A bowlful of coconut rice is next.
The rice gets spread evenly...
...into a square-shape.
Here goes the mung bean filling...
...or the banana, as you like.
The roll gets, er, rolled.
The center gets tied.
Two leaf strips cap the roll.
Then it's tied on both ends.
Long grass ties a package knot.
The first ties are replaced.
Ties are equally spaced.
The excess sticks out the top.
The longest strand of grass...
...wraps the rest of the excess...
...all the way up until the end.
The excess is tied off, and done!
The rolls boil for eight to nine hours.
They do look prettier once they're cooked.
photo by Lữ Như Tiên

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Đám Giổ

Wikipedia, you've failed me, and you shall be punished. I came to you for information about the Vietnamese death anniversary. You told me the event is called giổ, and Wiki-cited compound words include: ngày giỗ, or day of the death; đám giỗ, or death anniversary ceremony; and bữa giỗ, or death anniversary feast. But you are wrong, Wiki. I just talked with Lữ, and she said the lone term giỗ means to console, not death anniversary, as you have so erroneously claimed. She said the term for the death anniversary is đám giổ, and Wiki is fail. That's okay, you reader-edited encyclopedia, you're not the only fail. The modern day omniscient oracle, Google, translated đám giổ to mean feast. Not death anniversary feast--just plain ol' piles-of-food feast. Google, go stand in the corner next to Wikipedia. Update: we just found out that the word for console is not giỗ, but dỗ, and the two words sound the same when spoken with a southern accent. The bottom line is: no one ever says giỗ for the death anniversary. Everyone says the words đám and giỗ together.

On Sunday morning, Lữ's cousins held a đám giổ at their house to honor the late mother of the husband. As far as the Wiki compound words go, the đám giổ truly was a celebration. More than sixty guests showed up. Ironically, I was told that it was a small gathering, and not a lot of people had been invited. And with a team of serious cooks working overtime to make a mountain of food, it truly was a feast.

Bánh bò nướng
On each table were plates that spilled over with golden, crispy bánh xèo crepes stuffed with clams, shrimp, and beansprouts; bowls of simmered chicken and curried beef with carrots cut like flowers; roasted pork with caramel-colored crackling skin; stacks of white, scissor-cut rice noodles; green leafy veggies and fragrant mint basil by the pile; loaves of sliced baquettes; wheels of red watermelon; leaf-wrapped rounds of yellow and maroon bánh tét slices; and one of my all time favorites: bánh bò nướng, a baked white sugar cake with a moist spongy texture and a fermented fruit flavor, which to Mike's and my surprise was supposed to be eaten with bites of roast pork. This repast of epic proportions was served at 10 a.m., just in time for second breakfast.

There is an order to service. The first to be served were the spirits of the ancestors. The cousin's husband placed the most attractive plates, one of each dish, onto the altar. Then he poured wine into cups and set them next to the dishes. And he lit incense. Whispy coils rose as it burned, and its smoke filled the breezy, sun-drenched room with a scent of reverence and remembrance. Meanwhile, Dì Tư's husband went through the tables, lighting more incense and pouring wine three times into a glass on each table. Ater the spirits were given enough time to eat their fill, the plates were taken down and placed on one of half a dozen tables.

Second to eat are (almost) everyone else. The tables filled in, hands cracked open cans of root beer and poured it over ice, and mouthfuls of glorious food traveled from serving dish to bowl to mouth, while occasionally making a brief stop at a dipping plate for a splash of soy sauce with garlic and chili, or for a dash of nước mắm. The men shouted and pointed and grabbed select bits of food and dropped them in Mike's and my bowls. In particular, the Vietnamese get a kick out of serving the steamed and dressed heads of chicken to folks like Mike and me. And Mike and I get a kick out of letting folks, like our tablemates, watch us eat chicken heads.

The middle age men at our table drank wine while they ate. The oldest men teetotaled, which may explain how they were able to live so long. During the meal, a man who wasn't exactly eating with us hovered over our table, cracked jokes, poured lots of unfiltered rice wine from a plastic pitcher, and passed the glasses around the table. The wine was served in the same shot-sized glasses in which tea was served before the meal. Nobody had their own glass--they were shared. The last person to have a drink passed the refilled glass off to the next person, who typically downed the wine in a gulp. Mike lifted a communal glass to eye level and said hey, alcohol kills germs, right?

After everyone else had eaten, the women who had made all the food in the first place finally sat down to put what was left of the food into their bellies. To me, Lữ's cousin seemed the lead cook in this whole affair. But she never even had a single bite of her own food. Nearly everything that came out of her kitchen, besides bread, noodles, or rice, had some sort of meat in it, and she's vegetarian this month. This happens to be the seventh month in the lunar calendar. In addition to the days when the moon is new or full, practicing Buddhists take the seventh month to eat vegetarian, an act which invests in good karma for the spirits of ancestors.

Which brings us back to the issue of not accepting whatever "fact" you read on the internet. In a post a couple days ago, I said we're currently in the sixth month. Sorry. I miscalculated and reported an error, based on a previous error from July. Now, Riffing Indochina is going to stand over there in the corner with Wikipedia and Google.